Ornatus-Mundi[Zenith]
7136
Fascinating insights into the creation of the outstanding enamel dials at RD...
Oct 04, 2013,15:27 PM
was posted almost four years ago by Purist Jonathan Hang (Z3) here on Purists. He revisited the high level and artistry that went into creating exemplary enamel dials. Some experts even suggest that those belong to the best ever created in the industry:
Jonathan writes:
"While much attention is focused on high complications,miniature enamel painting remains one of the exclusive yet relatively under-appreciated specialty in the Swiss watch industry. One maker that has a special place in my heart is Roger Dubuis - a brand whose enamel watches combine traditional artisanship with vibrant colors, modern concepts, and intriguing designs."
As many of you know there are several independent artist who create enamel dials for altmost the entire watch industry. Anita Porchet is certainly the most well known amongst them, she does amazing work e.g. for Jaquet Droz, Piaget or others (you may want to read Dr. Michel Ting's
report here ).
However, what makes Roger Dubuis' enamel dials stand out are the non-round, square, rectangular or cushion shaped dials, which are often even curved:
I did not realise the additional complexity and the challenges that are inherent to the creation of non-round dials before I did some research over the last couple of days:
While enamel dials are a delicate speciality per se, creating shaped dials or even curved ones is on a whole different level of complexity and comes with a large range of technical difficulties: The main problem here are the repeated heating and cooling cycles. On a non-round dial, this creates tensions due to uneven thickness of the substrate and may result in deformations which cause enamel layers to break off the substrate.
Even if such be resolved, varying coefficients of expansion lead to distortion of the enamel which is particularly troublesome if painted numbers, indices or images are applied atop a ground layer of enamel.
But the Manufacture Roger Dubuis did persevere and spend much time and efforts to reaise their vision of spectacular hand-painted shaped dials. I did a quick search on the European patent database and - to my surprise - discovered that RD indeed filed a patent which covers the process of creating shaped enamel dials, particularly such with a curved dial.
European patent #EP 1 554 415 B1 is a fascinating read to those who are interested in such artisanal dials (here is an excerpt that shows the level of detail RD went into):
The purpose of the said invention is to solve the above problems in order to be able to remedy defects in the enamel dials of non-circular shape for watches, particularly for wristwatches.
The solution invented by RD involves a dial substrate mild (or ingot) steel with a very low carbon content, less than 0.08 % and preferably 0.004%. The substrate is to be cold-rolled with a thickness between 0.30 and 0.80 mm and is preferably about 0.45 mm. Furthermore, these steel plates must be processed before enamelling for (i) a perfectly defatted surface and (ii) a homogeneous surface structure.
The patent then described ins detail the composition of the enamel and the steps necessary to produce a shaped dial.
Really, really fascinating! Guess who is listed as inventor? You are probably wrong, that is Mr Carlos Dias himself!
This attributes to the fascination enamel dials have, and increases (at least) my admiration for a company that strives to avoid compromises in order to achieve what designers intended!
Thanks for reading,
Magnus
This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2013-10-06 06:27:27