Roger Dubuis

It is a considerably rare event to spot a Roger Dubuis timepiece in the wild, but I managed to catch one during this year's BaselWorld 2015: thanks to its owner, a fellow Purist, a red-tipped EasyDiver ChronoExcel  got into my hands, a sports watch with significant horological as well as design/manufacture content, both of which reveal themselves to the beholder only after an intense crush - this is exactly what I did (actually, I was that surprised that I forgot something very crucial - see below!):

One of the most remarkable (and easily overlooked) features of the EasyDiver ChronoExcel is actually its case. Paying a homage to the Sympathie watch collection, it embodies ruggedness and elegance at the same time. Despite being sturdy and suitable for more demanding activities (in the realm of fine watches, that is), the case offers some remarkable refined details:

With this particular watch, the red 'ears' draw attention. They are indeed functional parts and are extensions of the rubber seal between bezel and case.

Upon close look one finds the bezel inserts - made of rubber! - are totally flush with the steel bezel frame ring. Even the black 'arrows' are rubber inserts. Remarkable that even after several years of daily use the rubber seems largely unaffected by wear & tear, something I would not take for granted even for supposedly much sturdier materials:

Before I can continue - a confession! I was such mesmerised (and surprised, but more on this further down!) by this watch that I committed a PuristS' cardinal sin: I totally missed out on taking a movement shot! Please don't tell the management... ;-)

Thankfully, I could resort to Anthony's and Ming's images! So here it is in all its glory: RD's fantastic Cal. RD78 (a pity that this is not used anymore as extensively as they sued to!) with all its delicacies: classical horizontal clutch chronograph with (capped!) column wheel, micro rotor-powered automatic winding system and finally the Poinçon de Genève, the seal which attests to outstanding craftsmanship and provenance:

Did you note the rubber inserts in the back bezel as well?

In the following I would like the share with your some of the outstanding details (images: Anthony & Ming); escapement assembly...

... miro rotor (note its upper bearing doubling as chronograph bridge)... 

... and finally the chronograph system:

The chronograph pusher feel took me a bit by surprise, precise with well defined operation points, and yet smooth at the same time. Someone must have paid attention here.

But back to the topic of the review, the wrist-fell & -presence of the ChronoExcel. For this, a look first on the buckle:

Quite a bold one with the RD EasyDiver logo to match the rubber seal beneath the bezel. The strap is made of rubber as well, and has to be cut to size for optimal fit to the owner's wrist. And there we are:

Look, while I missed the movement shots I at least was properly dressed for this watch ;-):

The surprising discovers (at least for me!) was how well this 46mm 'beast' fits to modestly dimensioned wrists. Actually, RD's watch designers must have taken great care in defining the dimensions of the various components, like case, bezel, lugs etc., to come up with something like a magic formula.

Otherwise, could such a view be coincidence?

So, in order to arrive at a conclusion: I learned, like often if I try a new watch, something about watches and myself. Even oversized timepieces can make sense if the right (design) choices are made like in this case (pun intended). 

With the EasyDiver ChronoExcel, RD combined an outstanding and very appealing movement with a vivid, sappy enclosure. One can debate on the utility of fine sport watches, but I think one cannot negate the observation that RD has done an excellent job here.

For myself, I tend to repudiate this type of watches. Having enjoyed this piece on my wrist, and monitoring my own feelings, I can only conclude that I should not let myself be driven too much by my scientific (part of) self. 

For this lesson I am thankful. And dare I say: I love this watch!

For more please read Ming's and Anthony's in-dept report (click here! ) - this is also where the movement images were taken from!

 

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