ampurist
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Roger Dubuis shows off the Astral Skeleton Collection
2015 is a huge year for Roger Dubuis. Titled "The Year of the Astral Skeleton," the brand has released a collection of incredible new skeleton models that extend the visual aesthetic and technical genius behind the 20-year-old brand.
Last week, I was treated to see the new collection at an intimate gathering in the Rarities Room at the New York Palace Hotel. Featuring a bar stocked with aged whiskey and scotch, the faint tantalizing smell of foie gras wafting from a corner tray, delicate tiers of hors d'oeuvres filled the stomachs of those guests just getting off work.
I joined the crowd at the center of attention - 16 watches waiting to dazzle your eyes with the magic and architectural breakthroughs of Roger Dubuis' signature brand of haute horlogerie. It is a rare treat when a brand commits to create a new world or alter universe to enhance the experience of a new creation and Roger Dubuis did just that. When this collection is seen together in all of the variations and different models, the astral theme is very obvious and present.
The first watch to grab me, and I mean really grab my attention for a solid 10 minutes, was the rubberized Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon with a rubber bezel. Endearingly referred to as "The Hero", this watch just popped, such was its sheer presence. The sharpness and silhouettes of the geometric shapes within the case gave the impression of a gothic cathedral cutting through a clear sky. The edges of the famous Roger Dubuis star cuts against the backdrop provided by the top of the wrist and really exudes a dramatic lead towards the top of the case.
"The Hero" is not only a new horological aesthetic, but also a canvas riddled with hints and clues. RD wanted to bring life to something very static and the use of the stars was the key. It is interesting to note the use of an asymmetrical star in the RD505SQ movement. The elongated diagonal adds a dramatic effect that leads the eye off the "canvas" of the dial. It is really the use of the thickness of the dial or the ring of rectangular diamonds around the gem-set bezel that keeps the viewer "grounded".
Note that RD does not exclusively use the stretched star in the collection. Hiding behind the Celtic Cross shaped fly wheel is yet another star. It is interesting to note that in the RD01SQ movement powering the Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon, the stars are very traditional and symmetrical while in the RD505SQ movement, the star mimics the abstract star seen at the top of the case.
The watch looks "raw" due to the use of titanium and balances the duality of being able to be worn throughout a tough day, strong enough to withstand the rigors of an active life, while boasting the hidden treasure of housing the intricate and seemingly delicate, yet robust, RD505SQ movement. The RD505SQ was created with the intention of debuting within this specific model. The weight and the design all complement the home it resides in.
I believe that the key factor in the success of this new model is the clarity in the negative space within the case. There is almost a sense of the wearer putting on an intricately structured bracelet in both the design and weight of the watch. There is virtually no weight beneath the use of rubber straps and titanium case. It only seems natural that my next choice to ponder and appreciate was the Spider Skeleton Tourbillon with a diamond set bezel.
Adding diamonds to the bezel definitely made the watch a little more feminine but the diamonds were not put on the bezel with the intention to make the watch fall strictly under the ladies watch category. The size and the caliber were exactly the same and to my delight, the watch also comes in white. I know what I'm putting on my 10-year Christmas wish list but with only 88 being made, that's going to take a miracle.
The new collection also extends the already incredible Excalibur collection, the collection catering to the "Warrior" personalities of the brand.
Hesitantly, I had to remind myself that there were other children in the playground. I stayed within the sandbox of the skeletons and moved on to the Automatic Skeletons. Coming in titanium, rose gold, and white gold, the automatic movement displayed a more open and airy arrangement of the gears and wheels within the case, which allowed for more subtle inclusions of the star shapes. After playing around with the automatic movement, I immediately switched back to the flying tourbillon. I felt like a weightlifter who was lifting 5-pound weights after a session of squatting 150-pound weights or a runner who was back on pavement after sprinting through sand.
The left bank of the display showed the feminine beauties of the Velvet collection. The inclusion of the pink, pastel blue, and black straps to enhance the softer and more glamorous line was partnered with the dazzling diamonds surrounding the bezels. Although not my particular taste, the Velvet collection is a very classic women's watch - simple dial, diamonds, colorful strap, and light to wear. With the Velvet collection defined by Roger Dubuis' "Diva" personality, the inclusion of the three ladies watches added sparkle to the show.
I was then drawn to the Hommage Collection at the far right of the display by the gleam of the guilloche dial of the Double Flying Tourbillon in pink gold. Visually comparing the Skeleton Flying Tourbillon to this very solid and stately rose gold Flying Tourbillon enhanced the regal feeling of the rose gold and the modern angularity of the skeleton. To further bring the guests to the Hommage world, the brand placed the Flying Tourbillon with a large date and the chronograph in white gold in the display.
It is also very important to note that all Roger Dubuis' models have received the Hallmark of Geneva quality stamp and steal.
The Geneva Seal requires, and thus guarantees, that each part of the movement be hand finished to exacting and traditional standards.
All RD watches are submitted to extensive performance and durability testing administered by the Geneva Laboratory of Horology and Microengineering, including various tests of water resistance, precision, and performance of specialized movement or functions.
Tests in water resistance and the power-reserve go through extensive testing to ensure that any and all claims related to the models are accurate and true. The test of precision is a series of simulations that mimic the standard activities during a normal week. At the end of the seven days, the watch cannot have deviated more than a minute.
Internally, some requirements are that all materials used cannot contain polymers. All shaped parts, screws, and pins must be polished, or, in the case of the screws, circular satin-brushed. All strip or jumper springs must have a heel and the jewels on the bridge side must be semi-brilliant with polished sinks. The common factor in all of these requirements are that all parts must be finished so that all machine traces are removed.
Why is the Seal so relevant to Roger Dubuis and such a badge of honor for the brand? That is because every single piece produced by RD so far is recognized and sealed with the Geneva Seal. Currently the only manufacturer to have every single piece stamped with the seal, other brands boasting the seal are Vacheron Constantin, Cartier, and Chopard.
As guests began to trickle off in their various modes of transportation, I took the opportunity to glance back at the contrast of the new models of the Hommage to the new models of the Excalibur collection. Being placed next to the skeletons, the use of gold in the dial added visual weight and a feeling of tradition and classical technique. The guilloache dial did mimic the angularity seen in the edges of the star and movement in the skeletons but seeing these two collections right next to each other was like seeing the Pantheon next to a Gothic church. The architecture of the two contrasted greatly and to the such great extents yet both exuded a feeling of history and tradition... stability.
Perhaps that is the reasoning behind Roger Dubuis' motto and alignment with architecture and design. The star theme, constant use of the Celtic Cross, and jarring architectural design of the skeletons give off an almost religious or heavenly feel to support the new Astral Skeleton.
I am impressed.
-ampurist
More posts:
Roger Dubuis shows off the Astral Skeleton Collection
2015 is a huge year for Roger Dubuis. Titled "The Year of the Astral Skeleton," the brand has released a collection of incredible new skeleton models that extend the visual aesthetic and technical genius behind the 20-year-old brand. Last week, I was trea...
Thanks a lot for your report!
I was very impressed by the 2015 Dubuis collection, I will come back to it! Thanks for your report! Fx
I don't remember seeing so many models in one room
ampurist Thank you for the eyeball report. I don't remember seeing so many models in one room before. We used to collect Roger Dubuis watches when they made "limited editions of 28 pieces) with the same dial colours but different case shapes. The revamped...
Thanks MTF
It was incredible seeing all of the new collection together! I wish I was able to see the display at SIHH.
The RD Astral Skeleton tourby
Thanks ampurist for sharing pics of the event. The RD Astral Skeleton looks really nice. I like the movement and transparency. Regards, ED-209
